8 week old puppy martingale collar

Z

Zachery

Forums Novice
Hello all!

I am anxiously awaiting the day I can go pick up my new baby sheltie, Issy. I'm sure most of you can understand my excitement/anticipation. On January 10th, she will be ready to go at 8 weeks old. We will be doing a little bit of traveling in the process of picking her up and bringing her home. I have been doing a lot of reading, and I understand that a martingale collar is best for a sheltie. My question is, could anyone give me a rough estimate (I know sheltie size can vary greatly) of how big an 8 week old's neck is?

I am planning on having a few adjustable collars made as she grows (I'm not worried about cost, so don't factor that into your advice.) I live in a condo, so all of her potty breaks have to be on leashed walks. I can tell you both of her parents are on the smaller side, so I dont think she will be a monster in size. The collar will have multiple loops for adjusting, so I have about an inch in either direction, if for some reason she is slightly smaller or larger than expected. I just really need an estimate of what her neck size will be.

Thanks in advance for your feedback!

-Zach
 
I'd go as small as they offer. Sheltie necks are usually pretty small at 8 weeks. I'd almost recommend a halter instead though if you know she's going to be tiny. I've never used those collars though, just regular nylon collars. When we brought Ruutu home he was on the bigger side of 8 weeks and still only needed the smallest collar possible.
 
You can get an adjustable martingale like this- http://amzn.com/B000JCZPY0

I would probably get a small, which is 8-12". The XS is 5-8".

The size my puppy wore was an XS/S and it was 8-14" and I didn't have any problems with it and she was able to wear it for quite a while. It was a buckle collar though, from Petco.
 
8 week old martingale collar

Hi Zach...and congratulations on such a happy puppy homecoming to look forward to!

I love Martingale collars and use them on all my dogs...but a word of caution with tiny pups and these collars unless the collar is fitted snugly enough not to leave much of a loop hanging down. When you are not going to be keeping track of your pup it is safer to remove the collar...it is easy for a bouncy pup to jump and catch that extra loop on something and some pups will try to chew that loop and can get their bottom jaw caught and not be able to get it out (my Faelee did this the one time I forgot to remove her collar before I left her alone in her playpen while I was doing some chores around the house).

Trini and my gang.
 
My recommendation is a small snap or buckle collar, that can be size adjusted often. Walmart and Target both have wonderful selections. The collars are about 1/2" wide. It fits close enough to the neck to not be in a way, as a martingale collar would be. Now, I have nothing against martingale collars or harnesses per say, but not for an 8 week old puppy, and not until the pup can walk calmly on a leash. The 8-12 inch size would work, just make it small, down to the 8".
 
missjenneygirl said:
My recommendation is a small snap or buckle collar, that can be size adjusted often. Walmart and Target both have wonderful selections. The collars are about 1/2" wide. It fits close enough to the neck to not be in a way, as a martingale collar would be. Now, I have nothing against martingale collars or harnesses per say, but not for an 8 week old puppy, and not until the pup can walk calmly on a leash. The 8-12 inch size would work, just make it small, down to the 8".
Click to expand...

Connie...question. Why do you prefer a collar to a harness while a pup is learning to walk calmly? I would never advocate leaving a harness on a pup the way you would a collar. But my first reaction would be that a collar would put more pressure on the trachea than a harness would when a pup is bouncing around and pulling. You have far more pup experience that I do since the majority of my dogs have been adult rescues...so I am sure you have a good reason for your preference and I would be interested in learning the "why".

Trini
 
The reason I don't like a harness is two fold. First, it is quite common that people don't adjust them properly, and puppies have been known to back out of them. Second, the leash is attached more to the center of the back. The puppy doesn't learn to move forward head first, since you are bringing them along "back or shoulders" first. It can encourage puppies to spin on the leash, and there is no correction for this with a harness. Think of it like a horse. You couldn't control a horse by clipping a lead shank to a harness. The animal follows his head. An adult dog, who know leash manners is fine on a harness.

I believe in keeping a snap or buckle collar well fitted, without any tags, on young puppies until they are at an age where they follow directions. With the collar, around the house, you can catch your pup when you need to, instead of grabbing at fur as he flies by. When I hold my puppy by the collar, he knows that he needs to pay attention to me, either to move toward or away from something, or I need to handle him for grooming, etc. He can't pitch a fit and get his way when I gently hold his collar. Without the collar, he can wiggle, get mad, and get his way.

Any puppy kindergarten class will teach this, and not even address the use of a harness on a puppy.
 
An easy way to train your puppy to walk on a leash...happily.

This was taught to our sheltie club members by a 50 year sheltie breeder, who was a former sheltie handler, and is now a sheltie judge. She recently judged our national. Very, very smart lady!

You need a buckle or snap collar, fitted correctly. A flexi lead for a small dog, so the clip is small and light weight. A clicker, and a pocket full of tiny treats or string cheese.

While holding the pup in your arms with the leash on, click the clicker and immediately reward the pup. Do this several times so the pup begins to anticipate the treat when he hears the clicker.

Put the pup down on the grass. Be patient. Let the puppy go where ever he wants and you follow along. Don't let him get to the end of the leash where it stops him. As you follow along behind him, occasionally bend down, call him by name, click your clicker. He should look toward you and come for a treat. If he only looks toward you. Go to him and treat. Continue this. Don't pull him at all, he will only buck and pitch a fit. Pretty soon, he will be following you, after you click and treat. This technique progresses on to a sing-song voice "Geordie come!".

Remember lots of praise, pats and hugs. Keep you sessions between 5-10 minutes, no more.
 
Thanks, Connie...everything you say makes perfect sense...I really appreciate your taking time to answer my question in depth. :)

Trini
 
Thanks so much for your recommendations. I went ahead and ordered a snap collar and flexi leash. I'm a little nervous on the training. This will be my first sheltie, and I really want to do my best to take full advantage of the breed's intelligence. I plan on us participating in obedience classes as she ages. Are there any books you would recommend on training sheltie pups in specific? I have a month or so before I bring her home so I have lots of free time that I need to occupy. :smile2:
 
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