Behavior Books

Smudge

Forums Sage
Has anybody ever read these books?

http://www.amazon.com/Help-Your-Shy...r_1_12?ie=UTF8&s=books&qid=1254593935&sr=8-12

http://www.amazon.com/Help-Your-Fearful-Step-Step/dp/0966772679/ref=pd_bxgy_b_img_b

http://www.amazon.com/Cautious-Canine-Patricia-McConnell-Ph-D/dp/1891767003/ref=pd_bxgy_b_img_c

http://www.amazon.com/Scaredy-Under...ng-Your-Reactive/dp/0976641402/ref=pd_sim_b_2


If not, could you please point me in the direction of a good website/book on how to socialize a fearful dog? Also, can anybody possibly recommend a book/website on stress in dogs and how to deal with it?
 
This seems to be my week to post articles. I don't know if you've heard of dog trainer Uncle Matty, but I've read some of his work and seen his methods and they are pretty good. Here's an article of his about training with his website at the bottom that might give you some help, Jessica. You can post your question directly to his site and they will get back to you with recommendations for books and videosif you check that you want to do the training yourself. Might be worth a try?

Dog Talk with Uncle Matty: Defective Dog Trainers
By Matthew “Uncle Matty” Margolis
A year ago, a woman in New York City who shall remain nameless adopted two Chihuahuas knowing both dogs had a proclivity toward aggression. The dogs did not disappoint: They bark when she is and isn't home, they snap at fellow residents in the elevator, and they've bitten random strangers on the street.

In the last year, this woman has hired four different dog trainers, each drawing their own professional conclusions:

-- Love the dogs, tell them they are good boys, and keep them in their crates.

-- Ignore the bad behavior, and the dogs will eventually knock it off.

-- The dogs are mad at you, and that is why they bite.

-- Some dogs are just defective.

Apparently, so are some dog trainers. Which is why it's important to do the homework and know what you want before you sign on with a trainer for you and your dog.

Yes: a trainer for you and your dog.

A highly specialized trainer trains a Seeing Eye dog and teaches the owner how to effectively communicate with the dog in terms of the dog's education. Another specialized trainer trains a K-9 cop and educates the officer to ensure dog and dog owner speak the same language. That is essentially what you want from your dog trainer: someone who can teach you and your dog to speak the same language.

And that language is not the language of love.

I recently spoke with a woman whose dog urinates in the house. She told me how much she loves her dog and that she was sure they could work it out. But the problem persisted despite her immense love, and she eventually called a dog trainer. This "trainer" concluded that her dog was angry with her because she had a roommate. The woman asked, "What do I do?" The trainer advised, "Get rid of the roommate."

My advice? Get rid of that dog trainer, and lose the notion that lots of love is the equivalent of lots of training.

Dog training is an unregulated industry. Anyone can hang their shingle and call themselves a dog trainer. It's up to you, the diligent dog owner, to ask the questions that will elicit the trainer's true competency. Here are some good ones:

-- Are you a licensed or certified dog trainer? Certification, required or not, indicates a dedication to the endeavor and a degree of practical education.

-- What behavioral problem do you specialize in? Aggression? Housebreaking? Basic obedience? Tip: Ask what their specialty is before you give any clues as to what you need help with.

-- What training method do you use? Punishment-based training -- shock collars and knees to the chest? Reward-based training -- treats for tricks? Praise-based training -- personality-appropriate correction in conjunction with affection and love? The latter, in my opinion, is the only approach that is both effective and humane.

-- What kind of results do you get? Ask for references.

-- Do you offer any guarantees? If the answer is yes, get them in writing.

And don't rule yourself out. If you can put in the time to assess your pup's personality and stick with a single personality-appropriate praise-based training method, you just might be the best candidate for the job. There are books, websites and DVDs available to help you if this is the path you choose. Visit unclematty.com for suggestions.

However we do it, diligence is key. Learning to speak the same language through training will curb, if not cure, most behavioral problems. Contrary to the thinking of a handful of goofball dog trainers, loving him, ignoring him, psychoanalyzing him and blaming him will not.
 
I have both 'cautious canine' and 'help for your shy dog' both are good and were recommended to me by a behaviourist. The former is a very short book and covers the main basics. Help for your shy dog goes into more details - it relates mainly to people-shy dogs but most of the techniques are transferrable. Interestingly most of the case studies are of shelties!

I found them both useful in helping Tully. Some of the techniques needed a bit of adapting - like I took Tully to the oval to interact with other friendly dogs but discovered I still needed to take care how the socialising was done. So other dogs pinching her ball or getting in her face was not good for her, but playing ball with more reserved dogs that also shared turns was really good for her.

Ann I love those questions Uncle Matty suggests asking behaviourists - wish I knew about them before I got that first awful behaviourist for Tully. I would just add one more - what do they know about the breed and how they learn.
 
I've got Scaredy Dog and Cautious Canine, and found both good! There's some doubling up in those two books, and they do touch on similar things. I would recommend either. Not a very good review on my part, but I'm in the office so don't have the books on hand to look at my scribbly notes (it's like school, all over again!)
 
I am also looking for a book to teach myself.
Which one of the books would be best for fear aggressive Sheltie?
My Sheltie is aggressive toward other dogs.
I'd like to train him so he is comfortable around dogs.
 
I am also looking for a book to teach myself.
Which one of the books would be best for fear aggressive Sheltie?
My Sheltie is aggressive toward other dogs.
I'd like to train him so he is comfortable around dogs.

This is why I'm trying to take action now. :yes: Smudge is afraid of other dogs. I'm afraid that one day enough will be enough and he'll finally snap. He seems to have a problem with men/males as well. He's terrified of them. I feel like we're in a circle we can't get out of. He's sick, so I'm sure he shouldn't be around other dogs. Then again, how can he ever learn to not be afraid if he's never around them? My grandmother's pom attacked him. I'm not sure if this is why he's afraid or not. I don't really think she "meant" to. She had a treat my grandmother had given her on the floor that I didn't see. I put Smudge on the floor to play with her, and she chased Smudge away - barking and snarling the whole way! :sadsmile:

I don't know about fear aggression so I can't offer any advice. I have been watching a lot of dog shows on Animal Planet (I LOVE Animal Planet!). One of my favorite shows is "It's Me or the Dog". I've learned a lot just by watching that show. It doesn't tell you everything you need to know, but you can pick up some handy tips from her. She helps dogs deal with different behavior problems. The biggest thing I've learned from her show is that dogs react to something, and that's why they act the way they do. They don't just wake up one day and decide they want to snap at people from now on. There's been times when I've watched that show thinking she was going to tell the people they were going to have to put their dog down, and she turned the dog around! :eek2: It's a really cool show. I think Sheltie Nation even had something a day or two ago about it.
 
Books

I've been getting dog books from the library and my favorite authors so far are Ian Dunbar and Patricia McConnell.

Here's Dunbar's website:
http://www.dogstardaily.com/

and here's an article about fear by Patricia McConnell.
http://www.thebark.com/content/both-ends-leash-fear-reduction

Also, I thought Randy Grimm's book was hilarious.
http://www.amazon.com/Dont-Dump-Dog-Outrageous-Solutions/dp/160239640X

Buffy has had some issues with fear. She's not afraid of other dogs, but she is pretty nervous around trains, buses, and loud trucks. We've just been hanging out around those stimuli a lot (usually I try to do it at off-hours, like 10 a.m. or early afternoon instead of rush hour) and giving her lots of treats--like really good ones, hot dogs and chicken. To be honest there's no avoiding those things since we live right by 2 train lines, 2 bus lines, and the place the garbage truck parks.

As far as other dogs go, try to find a puppy socialization class. Ours has been wonderful and instructor is very careful that the big dogs and the energetic small guys don't bully Buffy. Buffy was pretty nervous the first class, but 6 classes later even the instructor said she's a different dog around other dogs. We're also doing some stuff with friends that have calm dogs.... but be really careful about doing too much too soon. It's okay if puppies go at their own pace around other dogs.

Sorry I haven't read the books you have on there, but hopefully this is somewhat helpful!
 
Romeo is reactive towards other dogs. Whether it's fear induced or not I cannot be sure, but he barks and lunges and growls at them. I've been working on him using the book Control Unleashed and have found that to be really good. There are a couple of principles that run throughout most of these training books:

1. work below threshold - ie. work when the dog hasn't started to react. Apparently behaviour can't be changed effectively if the dog has already started to react. Before, when I first started, I found that once Romeo reacts, he can't hear me at all. It's like his thinking brain switched off and his reacting brain turns on shutting out everything else. Working below his threshold (usually by standing further away from whatever he's reacting to) has helped me change when he starts to react (ie. the distance he has to be between scary object and him decreases over time).

2. help the dog make positive associations with whatever it is reacting to. Alot of yummy treats are involved. The treats must be something really stinky and exciting since it's competing with something else that affects the dog so much. I use liver and cheese and sausages. The idea is to basically get the dog to expect treats when it sees the scary object instead of expecting the negative feelings it might have for it. In the beginning I found it necessary to just stuff a continuous neverending stream of food into Romeo's mouth as he eyeballs other dogs. Small raisin sized treats don't work for me coz I can't pop them into his mouth fast enough to stop him from barking. I use sticks instead or liquid treats and squirt them into his mouth. Peanut butter or cream cheese also help to gum up the mouth to prevent barking.

Now he's muuuuuuch better. He can't be too close to another dog but at a bit of a distance, he'll look at the dog, NOT REACT and look right back at me again in anticipation of the treat! If he's abit too close to another dog and starts to react, I can also snap him out of it much more easily (than not ever being able to before!) by calling his name or making smacking noises with my mouth.

One thing that I learnt from the Scaredy Dog book is that reactive behaviour triggers the production of some hormone or whatever in the dog, which STAYS in the dog for a few days. Before beginning any training to help reactive dogs, we should work off that hormone thing by taking long walks (at a trot), because if the stuff is still floating around the body, the dog will react faster and likely more when it next encounters its scary object. I suppose once training has commenced and the dog has a "episode" and such stuff is produced, long walks to get rid of it would be a must also before continuing on the training.

For dogs which are afraid of things and run and hide instead of being reactive in an "aggressive" way, I think 1 and 2 above also apply. Since running away is also a reaction. Work below threshold (before the dog freaks out) and create positive associations. I bought a new blender the other day which is SO INCREDIBLY NOISY!! And it surprisingly freaked Romeo out. Romeo, the dog who was sitting metres away from my dad as he used an electric saw and hammered nails to make a fence!! What I did was throw some treats to Romeo so he knew I had food, then press "pulse" on the blender once while he's eating and throw more. I repeated that a few times, then upped it to two pulses, then three, then a longer continuous pulse, all the time throwing treats. He wouldn't come CLOSE in the beginning (ran away actually, barking) but is not so afraid now - doesn't bark and would come right up to me standing next to the blender at the counter. Still needs work tho'!
 
I've been getting dog books from the library and my favorite authors so far are Ian Dunbar and Patricia McConnell.

Here's Dunbar's website:
http://www.dogstardaily.com/

and here's an article about fear by Patricia McConnell.
http://www.thebark.com/content/both-ends-leash-fear-reduction

THANKS FOR THE McCONNELL ARTICLE!!!!!!!!!!!

It affirms what I have been finding lately. For years I have been not comforting my dogs during storms, as per advice. Deska is atrocious with loud noises and goes into hyperdrive during thunderstorms. I give him drugs and bones and play bagpipe music. While it helps him be a little calmer during the storm it has not lessened his fear or his 'fight' response. Recently he saw a bagpipe band and went ballistic because I think he associated it with thunder (there have been a lot of storms lately)!

In the last couple of weeks I have started keeping him close (next to me on the couch or in bed) as the body corporate has made threats about his barking during thunder storms (yes they are heartless). He is infinitely better when he is close to me rather than trying to fight off the storm. Also, Tully has started reacting to storms too - I think because of Deska's overwhelming fear response, only she hides. And Tully is infinately happier snuggling during a storm than running after a barking Deska.
 
Back
Top