She will not COME

My dog when I call come, actually does come but it is like he is headed for the gallows head hanging low and slow as molasses, now if I say bye bye or ride in the car he has speed like a tip agility runner. Go figure?
 
Laddie seems to respond well to "here we go" or, "where are you" both of these phrases work well, the least one he likes is "come"
 
Doesn't come when called

Some shelties are stronger willed than others…and maybe more intelligent and independent. All I can say is stick with it. It takes a loooong time and loads of perseverance. Can be up to 3 years before you get them doing everything you want. Dog training (I go very Friday night for 2 hours) can take years. Mind you it is fantastic what can be achieved (not me) by those people/dogs who have been going regularly for a long time…years! Seems to be a way of life for some.
 
With my first Sheltie I used a long line ((20ft light cord). I would let her wander around and then ask her to"come". If she did not respond immediately, I gave a gentle tug on the line, or brought her to me with light pressure on the line. Tons of praise when she got to me....then do it over, and over, and over...using lots go praise each time. I worked in no more than 10 minute sessions. This may not be the technique a lot of people would use, but it worked for us.
 
Desperate measures...I normally don't recommend it with Shelties because their herding instinct can take over. But consider having your dog chase you, while you shout "come". Then when the dog is close, stop and treat. Expand this gradually to into a chase, stop, and then sit and treat.

Just a thought!
 
From my experience with strong-headed labs - who are known for being difficult to train recalls! - don't try recalling her when she is already engaged in something exciting. She will not come and will learn that 'come' is optional. Only call her when she is looking at you and likely to respond. This is during training, I should add, as you progress you should be able to get a 'come' even when she is distracted.

Bear in mind when a dog catches a good scent or sees something exciting they often shut down and focus on it and literally cannot hear you because they are so engrossed. Catching a dog before that stage is important and means learning to assess their behaviour so you can predict when they are about to run off.

When you call always do so in a calm but firm voice. Intonation is very important to dogs. If your voice gets higher when you are worried or frustrated she will notice that and may not respond. That is why some people change to a whistle, as that always sounds the same no matter how worried/stressed/cross you are that she has run off.

I agree about starting with a completely new word and do training at home over and over. Always reward her when she comes, but don't show her the treat. You can also reward when she comes to you of her own accord, making it a positive thing for her to seek you out.

Age should help as well. Even with my lab who was nightmarish when young, age has improved his recall.

And ditch the electric fence, they are the worst invention ever unless you own cattle or sheep.
 
Lacysmom said:
I've watched and read everything on this topic. I keep a bag of tiny, high quality dog treats hanging off my belt at almost all waking hours. I've kept her on a leash when she wasn't running through the house at full speed. I make coming to me a wonderful experience. This 6 month old sheltie will not, will not, will not COME when she's called. I'm about to lose my mind over this. From the time she was tiny at the breeders, she has always run away when she knew the breeder, and then I, wanted her to come to us. The ONLY way she'll come, is if a treat is offered. I just don't know what to do about this any longer.

Today, she ran through the underground electric fence to visit a man and dog passing by. I ran out to the road, and called and called her. She would not come. The man said, "Boy, she doesn't listen, does she?" Well, no, as a matter of face, she does not. I've never, ever had a dog refuse to listen like this. And yes, we went to puppy obedience classes. When on the end of a rope like that, in class, she comes. It's just in the real world, she refuses to listen. Thoughts anyone?
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First of all, you are not alone and many people me included been there done that. Check this for people stories from all over the world http://susangarrettdogagility.com/2013/02/recallers-4-0-video-contest-final-videos-face-off/
Second , agree with above posts NO to electric fences!
Third- LESSON for life- never practice behaviors you do not want to see repeated. Being off leash is a privilege and if your pup does not have good recall then it is 100% on leash unless you have FULLY secured area where you do not have to recall your dog.
Four- there is lots of really good info on the net regarding teaching recall, google recallers / Susan Garrett and you get tons of hits on youtube etc.
http://myimperfectdog.wordpress.com/2013/05/21/review-susan-garretts-recallers-course/
This blog has a lot of really good tips where and why and how... probably many more than you need, but browse through, lots of good reads
http://www.clickerdogs.com/perfectrecall.htm
http://susangarrettdogagility.com/2009/04/recalls-a-worthwhile-investment/
http://susangarrettdogagility.com/2010/06/recall-collapse/
http://susangarrettdogagility.com/2013/09/two-keys-toa-simple-combination-not-a-high-tech-padlock/
Beg, borrow or buy Crate Games DVD by Susan Garrett. Your life with dogs will never be the same. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ebjBo_spqG0
it is not only for people who want to do sports with their dogs.
 
labgirl said:
Bear in mind when a dog catches a good scent or sees something exciting they often shut down and focus on it and literally cannot hear you because they are so engrossed. Catching a dog before that stage is important and means learning to assess their behaviour so you can predict when they are about to run off.
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I understand the concept of what is being said here, but given the vast differences between a dog's sense of sight and smell and those of a human, how does one "catch a dog before" he finds that thing of interest? Again, I understand what you are saying, but in practical application, I don't understand how it is always accomplished.
 
Ah, well that comes from learning the trigger signs:wink2: for instance, with Cadbury, if he sees something or someone interesting his head goes up and he stares for a second, his tail goes still and he is perfectly motionless, then he will suddenly run. So I catch him just as he goes into that pause. I admit that means watching him near constantly when off lead. I also keep my eyes open for people, dogs, horses, etc, and call him to me before he sees them. I also have treats and a ball with me, to grab his attention.

With scents it is harder, and means scoping the land to see likely tracks he might follow. He is very predictable once you learn the signs.
 
labgirl said:
Ah, well that comes from learning the trigger signs:wink2: for instance, with Cadbury, if he sees something or someone interesting his head goes up and he stares for a second, his tail goes still and he is perfectly motionless, then he will suddenly run. So I catch him just as he goes into that pause. I admit that means watching him near constantly when off lead. I also keep my eyes open for people, dogs, horses, etc, and call him to me before he sees them. I also have treats and a ball with me, to grab his attention.

With scents it is harder, and means scoping the land to see likely tracks he might follow. He is very predictable once you learn the signs.
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Interesting approach! I think it would be ultimately very difficult for me to do. The biggest difference I have found in training, it is all about a dog making ¨right¨ choices and me controlling reinforcement but not dog. I might reward dog for choice of coming to me by sending him after that rabbit or furry rat... but it is a choice, based on building huge value for coming to Da mama and choice of running after distraction that I will reward.
 
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